A valley, a canyon, several rural villages. The river, the depth, the mountains with their slopes transformed into terraced fields. The viewpoint, the cross, and the flight of the condor. The archaeological remains, the colonial churches, the religious festivals. The experiences, the customs, and the traditions of the Cabanas and Collaguas.
Snapshots of Colca: the high valley, the deep canyon, the tourist destination that captures the interest of travellers arriving in Arequipa. Is it close? Is it easy to reach? Can I go and come back in a day? These are the questions they repeatedly ask, and these are the queries we will address in this article.
We want you to explore Chivay, Cabanaconde, Yanque, Maca, and other villages in the Caylloma province, to discover one of the deepest canyons in the world (3200 to 3400 meters), to witness the flight of the condors, and to uncover the historical roots of a valley that preserves its ancestral essence.
Contents
Historical Highlights
Thousands of years ago, groups of nomadic hunters and gatherers roamed the heights and depths of the valley and canyon in search of food to ensure their survival. Gradually, they began to organise and learn to cultivate the land, changing their way of life.
From nomads to settlers. From gatherers to farmers. That was the beginning. That was the seed of the civilisation that began to sprout around 6000 BC, in the Colca River valley and the territories of the current Caylloma province (Arequipa region).
Changing History. Millennia and centuries of flourishing and decline. In this social and cultural process, the Cabanas—who claimed to come from the Hualca Hualca volcano—and the Collaguas, of Aymara origin, stand out. They settled in the Colca around 900 BC.
Both groups excelled in the raising of camelids. They wove garments from the fibres of llamas and alpacas, while the meat served as their food. During this period, they would “carve” the terraced fields that are still preserved today. Their development and refinement are attributed to the Collaguas.
But pre-Hispanic history in the valley does not end there. As would happen across much of the Andes, the Incas extended their domain to the deep canyon of Arequipa; however, beyond their presence and archaeological legacy, the Colqueños identify as proud descendants of the Cabanas and Collaguas.
How to Get to Colca?
By land, always by road. That’s the key to reaching the Colca Valley and Canyon, a destination located in the Caylloma province. The main gateway to this depth-filled paradise is Chivay, the provincial capital located approximately 160 kilometres from Arequipa. The journey takes between 3 to 4 hours.
As a popular national and international tourist attraction, several public transport companies operate routes at various times. So, you won’t have any trouble visiting one of the deepest canyons on the planet.
From Arequipa to Chivay
Buses depart from the Arequipa Bus Terminal (Avenida Arturo Ibáñez #130, Jacobo Hunter district). There are various schedules, including early morning departures so you can arrive in Chivay by first light. Note that during peak season (June-August), passenger traffic increases, so it’s advisable to book your tickets in advance.
- From Chivay to the Cruz del Cóndor: To visit one of the canyon’s key attractions, it’s recommended to hire a taxi in Chivay. The trip to the famous viewpoint takes about an hour. Be sure to negotiate the fare before getting in.
What if I Take a Tour?
In Arequipa, you’ll find multiple local operators offering various itineraries to the Colca Canyon and Valley. From day trips with public transport to private multi-day tours that also connect to Puno and Lake Titicaca.
If you opt for a tour, your only concern will be to fully enjoy the trip. The operator handles everything else. For private transport tours, the itinerary typically includes strategic stops at the Salinas Aguada Blanca National Reserve and the Volcanoes Viewpoint at the Patapampa Pass.
The Trails of Colca
Colca invites you to walk and explore. Traversing the trails that wind through the fields, mountains, and canyon walls offers a unique perspective of this fascinating destination.
If you’re interested in hiking, here are some of the most popular routes:
- Cabanaconde–Sangalle–Cabanaconde: Known for its diverse landscapes, this trail starts in Cabanaconde and descends to the banks of the Colca River (San Juan de Chuccho), then ascends to Tapay before descending again to the Sangalle oasis. From here, you begin the return to Cabanaconde (a climb). The route can be completed in one day or over several days.
- Cruz del Cóndor–San Juan de Chuccho–Cabanaconde: This trail starts at the famous viewpoint where you can observe the flight of the condor. After a long descent, you reach San Juan de Chuccho, deep in the Colca Canyon. The path is spectacular but demanding. The return involves a long and challenging climb.
- Cabanaconde–Cruz del Cóndor: This is the most well-known route. It begins in Cabanaconde and, after passing through the villages of Malata, Tapay, and Canocota, ends at the renowned Cruz del Cóndor viewpoint. From here, you can return by car or bus to Chivay.
What to Visit in Colca?
With so much to see, experience, and enjoy in the valley and canyon, choosing what to visit can sometimes be overwhelming. To help you make your choice, here’s a list of the most popular and impressive attractions.
- Mirador de la Cruz del Cóndor: This is a must-visit attraction. From this natural viewpoint perched on the edge of one of the canyon’s walls, you’ll observe the daily flight of the condors, the mythological bird of the Andean worldview. While waiting for the appearance of the vultur gryphus (its scientific name), take in the magnificent panorama offered by the viewpoint. We recommend visiting in the morning.
- Mirador de Achachihua: Less known than the Cruz del Cóndor, this spot offers spectacular views of the canyon. It’s perfect if you’re looking for a quiet place to admire the stunning geography of this Arequipa destination.
- Valle de las Maravillas: The agricultural terraces “sculpted” into the mountainsides in pre-Hispanic times add beauty to the Colca Valley. Seeing them from the higher vantage points is more than a delight, and exploring their paths becomes a soul-nourishing experience for travellers.
- Oasis de Sangalle: Not a mirage, though it might look like one. This place, nestled deep in the canyon, appears like a miracle to hikers who descend for hours to relax in its thermo-medicinal pools after a day of trekking.
- Cabanaconde: The largest village in the valley after Chivay, Cabanaconde is proud of its Cabanas heritage. Agriculture is the main activity, with corn being a flagship product. This destination, highlighted by the colonial Church of San Pedro de Alcántara and the traditional attire of its women, serves as the starting and ending point for several hiking routes.
- Baños de La Calera: Located on the outskirts of Chivay, this thermal complex is ideal for relaxing after a day of adventure in the valley and canyon.
- Colonial Churches: The Spanish presence in the valley is clearly evidenced in the churches of the Colca villages. With their architecture, antiquity, and religious art, visiting them is always a great choice. Notable among these are the Church of Santa Ana in Maca, the Purísima Concepción in Lari, and the Inmaculada Concepción in Yanque.
Travel Tips for Colca Canyon
- Rain-Free Period. From May to October (the dry season) is the best time to visit Colca Canyon, as rainfall is minimal.
- Beware of Altitude Sickness. The valley towns are situated at over 3000 m a.s.l., so it’s a great idea to acclimatise in Arequipa (2300 metres above sea level) to avoid altitude sickness.
- Be Prepared. Your luggage or backpack should include warm clothing (jackets, gloves, hats, scarves), a hat or sun visor, hiking shoes and boots, a rain jacket, and, if possible, a good pair of binoculars.
- Ready to Hike. If your goal is to explore the Colca trails, bring trekking boots and poles, a comfortable backpack, a flashlight, and plenty of water. A tent and sleeping bag are also good options.
- Keep Documents Handy. Always keep your passport and identification close by.
- Book in Advance. Reserve your accommodation and other services ahead of time, especially during the high season (June-August).
- Carry Cash. While cards are accepted at many tourist establishments in the valley, you’ll need to make cash payments in soles. Tip: Avoid high-denomination bills, as they can be hard to change.
- Stay Energised. Bring snacks and energy foods to keep your spirits high during your excursions.
- Communication. Ensure you have a mobile phone with coverage in the region and that it’s fully charged for emergency calls.
- Protect Colca. Respect the environment and local culture. This is the best way to help preserve this beautiful destination.
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